Sober Vapers Part 2
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Europe
Posts: 291
Update: I'm doing a lot of work in the garden lately, and I notice that I'm going hours on end without actually having a vape. Sure, I've got the device with me, but I just don't take a break like I did with cigs. Earlier I noticed I had gone 4 hours without even thinking about it.
So I'm guessing that the addiction is very much a psychological one at this stage, as that "urge" doesn't present itself when I'm busy. Which means that the longer term "end game" might still be to quit vaping altogether. Still, as I said repeatedly here, I'm not going to force it - I suppose I'll get there naturally.
500 days since my last cigarette, 35,000 not smoked... happy bunny.
So I'm guessing that the addiction is very much a psychological one at this stage, as that "urge" doesn't present itself when I'm busy. Which means that the longer term "end game" might still be to quit vaping altogether. Still, as I said repeatedly here, I'm not going to force it - I suppose I'll get there naturally.
500 days since my last cigarette, 35,000 not smoked... happy bunny.
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Washington, MO
Posts: 2,306
Same here Chief. I took your lead and just let it happen. Currently I'm at 4mg and have a 2.5 on deck. I too can go hours w/out if I'm busy. I can also chain -vape 1.5 ml in 40 minutes but rarely do that anymore. MIL has been at zero for 2 weeks--sez she's going through a lot of juice (5 ml a day). I'm down to about 3 ml. It just happens.
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 639
Glad to hear you guys are doing well! I was having a conversation with a fellow AA the other day that I've had with other people. Cigarettes just seem to have this highly addictive nagging grinding pull to them that produces that urge to chain smoke or take that cigarette break RIGHT NOW or walk to the gas station naked in subzero weather for a pack lol, what have you that vaping or even pipes or cigars don't have. Something tells me that's not Nicotine alone anyway. Me, I am a chain vaper. With the sub ohm. But I'm at 3 mgs for a week part time. I do 6 mgs at work to keep my nerves in check but I can say I only needed that once this week. I bought a 5 ml extender for my Atlantis and some 1 ohm coils along with a sleeve for my istick (which hasn't blown up or malfunctioned yet by the grace of God) so that's probably the extent of my upgrades for now.....until someone wants to make me a nice deal on the Vaporshark DNA 40. Lol vape on!
Behold the power of NO
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WA
Posts: 7,764
Did you guys read that inane ill researched article on the front page of SR?
5 Health Risks of E-Cigarettes
That woman does not even know the difference between smoke (pyrolisis) and vapour.
They must have found her on fiverr or Mechanical Turk >rolling eyes<
5 Health Risks of E-Cigarettes
That woman does not even know the difference between smoke (pyrolisis) and vapour.
They must have found her on fiverr or Mechanical Turk >rolling eyes<
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Washington, MO
Posts: 2,306
Lame article for sure. I've noticed a few trends here in mayberry: Older folks and younger folks are into vaping and a big % of the older ones are tapering to quit--they network and give tips. Most recently my MIL asked a taper success story friend 'how to get off juice when your a flave lover now' (and of course the hand-to-mouth thing)? Candy worked for her. Also, I never attempted drilling my bottom pins. I was drinking when I posted that. Bad Idea on both. Anyhoo, I'm hittin Lemon poppyseed , white chocolate, blueberry at 3% today . Vape on!
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Washington, MO
Posts: 2,306
Another question maybe--I've noticed using the higher VG mixes (80%) has me changing coils less-seems like it burns cleaner. Of course I prefer the flavor and cloud and it wicks well in my protanks (I was surprised given the thickness but my custom coils at 1.3 love it-no dry hits since going big on the vg). Anyone else notice this phenom?
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Europe
Posts: 291
Originally Posted by Brian316 
along with a sleeve for my istick (which hasn't blown up or malfunctioned yet by the grace of God)
until someone wants to make me a nice deal on the Vaporshark DNA 40. Lol vape on!
At this point I would not recommend any device with the DNA40. I didn't talk about it much on here, but I had a lousy time with my Vapor Flask DNA40 since November. It's broken again, and I don't even have the energy anymore to send it back for repair, as there is no guarantee that the next board will work or continue to work. That's a $300 device that is collecting dust on my desk.
I appreciate Evolv as a company, but they have a huge production problem which still hasn't been resolved - even with the latest version. Seriously, stay away for now.
Originally Posted by Carlotta
Did you guys read that inane ill researched article on the front page of SR?
5 Health Risks of E-Cigarettes
That woman does not even know the difference between smoke (pyrolisis) and vapour.
5 Health Risks of E-Cigarettes
That woman does not even know the difference between smoke (pyrolisis) and vapour.
I no longer have any doubt what so ever about the advantages of vaping (vs smoking). However, Dave Dorn from VapourTrails TV said something interesting: it will take a 10 year battle before finally everyone will be on the same page. And I think that is correct, it makes a lot of sense.BTW: for those who still have doubts about the formaldehyde scare: Dr. Farsalinos research came in this week, and confirms what we all know; it's only a problem during dry hits. More on http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases...0521082452.htm
Originally Posted by anattaboy
Anyone else notice this phenom?
In fact, the higher the VG content, the higher the percentage of flavoring you need to get the same taste. VG does not carry flavor very well (PG is much better for that), so one would even expect high VG juices to gunk up sooner. I suspect it might be down to specific juices in your case? Or, it's down to sweeteners, and high VG juices need less sweetener as it's pretty sweet in itself.
BTW: high VG might be a fad, and I predict we will go back to 50/50 or a slightly less harsh replacement for PG.
Also, some juices need higher power to vaporize cleanly.
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Washington, MO
Posts: 2,306
Thanks Chief....again. One of the shops here is touting "pharmaceutical-grade VG mixed by a licensed chemist". Their juice IS decent but at .60 per ml is NOT my go-to shop. And if he IS a chemist, why still adding B12 and insulting our intelligence there?
On another note: I built my 3rd and best dual, stacked 1.2 ohm (in a rather small space) and the flavor has jumped to a new level. Draw is tighter but I almost cough with just a mouth-to-lung hit the vape is so dense. I have about 40 ml of 3mg juices mixed right now--enough for 2 weeks. I'm happy with this set-up for now. Tomorrow? Who knows. I do know that I will NOT be increasing nic and THAT is why I started vaping. All good here.
On another note: I built my 3rd and best dual, stacked 1.2 ohm (in a rather small space) and the flavor has jumped to a new level. Draw is tighter but I almost cough with just a mouth-to-lung hit the vape is so dense. I have about 40 ml of 3mg juices mixed right now--enough for 2 weeks. I'm happy with this set-up for now. Tomorrow? Who knows. I do know that I will NOT be increasing nic and THAT is why I started vaping. All good here.
quat
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: terra (mostly)firma
Posts: 4,823
I have definitely noticed how at busy times vaping is not missed . While 'back in the day' smoke brakes were mandatory, if not convenient then the tasks would handled with butt hanging in the corner of the mouth with that burny stingy eyed squint.
Loving my 'sub ohm tanks' and rocking 22-25 w range at 6 mg , Vape On!!
Loving my 'sub ohm tanks' and rocking 22-25 w range at 6 mg , Vape On!!
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Washington, MO
Posts: 2,306
When I smoked I was a carpenter and learned to work and smoke (or barbeque, or anything) with a cig hanging out of my mouth. I can't do that with my vape-pen (although did see a guy in wallmart teeth-biting his) nor do I want to or really NEED to. Vaping for me is all about the sit-down, relax and sometimes a few puffs before entering a store or dr. appt.. Sometimes if I'm in a place too long I just duck and puff and blow into my shirt. I probably do that cuz it's juvenile but I am sometimes. I'm at 3.5 ml of 3mg and holding. Vape on!
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Europe
Posts: 291
Not all companies are in it just for the quick money. I contacted VaporFlask an hour ago telling them about the broken DNA40 board and the cash it would cost me ($60) to send it back to the US. 30 minutes later they showed me the printed label for a replacement (latest version), and told me not to worry about sending the broken one back. 
OK, it's an expensive device, but still, this is better than what I expected, a lot better. This proves they care about their image, and are in it for the long haul.
It's nice to be able to tell such a story sometimes.
OK, it's an expensive device, but still, this is better than what I expected, a lot better. This proves they care about their image, and are in it for the long haul.
It's nice to be able to tell such a story sometimes.
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 639
Chief, I have to tell you, you're either a bad influence or a really good one. LOL I had to get temp control on a budget so I went with the IPV4. I got some Kanger Nickel OCC coils and it's a little different. Love the device tho, I wanted at least 100 watts. But now I might pester you with questions about temp control and joules. I took some notes from Youtube videos and I was running the coil 38 joules at 445 F. Flavor seemed a little muted to me. So I'm now running an Atlantis with a .3 coil at 74 watts. LOL maybe I'm the bad influence. Please share any temp control or Nickel coil tips you have!
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Europe
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Not an easy task heheh. Temperature control is a new game, and we needed to rethink a lot when we started using it.
First, the temperature setting: the idea is to prevent liquid from getting too hot (for whatever reason, like bad wicking or empty tanks etc.) and the wick from burning or charring. For that, in theory, the best temperature setting would be 420°F max. That's the temperature above which a totally dry cotton wick would start to burn.
But some juices taste better at even lower settings. I have my Mini M (which uses almost the same Yihi board) set at 390°F which is both "safe" and gives me the best flavor.
The Joules setting is confusing in 2 ways. First of all, it helps to just translate Joules to Watts. 1 Joule is 1 Watt for 1 second. Technically, it's a more accurate measurement than Watts, and it probably also prevents Evolv from suing Yihi Ecigar (Evolv invented the Temp Control).
So Watts: basically, watts will determine how fast you get to your max temperature setting - and how much you would overshoot it if it wasn't there. With the Yihi style boards, it's best to just set it a bit lower, try, raise a few Watts (Joules, remember), try again until you find the best balance of speed of heating up without overshooting too much. When you set it too high, the chip will constantly have to limit the power to prevent overheating, and this does not give the best result. Sometimes a lower power setting (again, in Joules, which is Watts) will give a more powerful taste.
Now, if you are used to high power vaping before, you might find TC vaping "a bit anemic" at first. But that's probably because before you were pushing the boundaries of what is considered safe. Acrolein and other bad aldehydes start forming above 480°F (in theory). But you will get used to it, and actually find flavor notes that weren't there before if you use the technology as it's supposed to be used.
Also note that - as Phil Busardo says - it's still a bit "temperature guessing". It works, it will prevent dry hits or overheating of the liquid, but depending on the coil/wick/juice/510 connection/soldering etc. 400°F on one setup may be 370°F on the next one.
The technology is new, and more and more players are coming to the market. Joyetech is launching the Evic VT which seems very accurate (and also has settings for Titanium wire), and Innokin announced a technology that will work with Kanthal (but will probably need bespoke atomizers with a temp sensor).
In case it wasn't clear yet: nickel works because it predictably changes resistance with temperature. A 0.1 ohm nickel coil will be 0.3ish (just an example) when it's up to 420°F; by (constantly, 50 times a second or more) measuring the resistance change, the chip can calculate the (approximate) temperature of the coil. Kanthal resistance doesn't change at all (well, all wires do, but with kanthal it's almost impossible to measure - because it's so stable it is used as heating wire in, for example, toasters).
Because these changes are so minute, it is vital to keep all the connections clean. Clean that 510 on device and Subtank as often as you can. Make sure your coils are screwed down tightly (don't overdo it). If you build your own coils, used spaced coils (no contact coils) and tighten up the screws as much as you can to make a solid and reliable connection.
That's the short of it, feel free to ask more when you stumble over stuff.
PS: Phil just reviewed the IPV4 last night:
(if that doesn't work, the link is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhiVysiJ7ck)
First, the temperature setting: the idea is to prevent liquid from getting too hot (for whatever reason, like bad wicking or empty tanks etc.) and the wick from burning or charring. For that, in theory, the best temperature setting would be 420°F max. That's the temperature above which a totally dry cotton wick would start to burn.
But some juices taste better at even lower settings. I have my Mini M (which uses almost the same Yihi board) set at 390°F which is both "safe" and gives me the best flavor.
The Joules setting is confusing in 2 ways. First of all, it helps to just translate Joules to Watts. 1 Joule is 1 Watt for 1 second. Technically, it's a more accurate measurement than Watts, and it probably also prevents Evolv from suing Yihi Ecigar (Evolv invented the Temp Control).
So Watts: basically, watts will determine how fast you get to your max temperature setting - and how much you would overshoot it if it wasn't there. With the Yihi style boards, it's best to just set it a bit lower, try, raise a few Watts (Joules, remember), try again until you find the best balance of speed of heating up without overshooting too much. When you set it too high, the chip will constantly have to limit the power to prevent overheating, and this does not give the best result. Sometimes a lower power setting (again, in Joules, which is Watts) will give a more powerful taste.
Now, if you are used to high power vaping before, you might find TC vaping "a bit anemic" at first. But that's probably because before you were pushing the boundaries of what is considered safe. Acrolein and other bad aldehydes start forming above 480°F (in theory). But you will get used to it, and actually find flavor notes that weren't there before if you use the technology as it's supposed to be used.
Also note that - as Phil Busardo says - it's still a bit "temperature guessing". It works, it will prevent dry hits or overheating of the liquid, but depending on the coil/wick/juice/510 connection/soldering etc. 400°F on one setup may be 370°F on the next one.
The technology is new, and more and more players are coming to the market. Joyetech is launching the Evic VT which seems very accurate (and also has settings for Titanium wire), and Innokin announced a technology that will work with Kanthal (but will probably need bespoke atomizers with a temp sensor).
In case it wasn't clear yet: nickel works because it predictably changes resistance with temperature. A 0.1 ohm nickel coil will be 0.3ish (just an example) when it's up to 420°F; by (constantly, 50 times a second or more) measuring the resistance change, the chip can calculate the (approximate) temperature of the coil. Kanthal resistance doesn't change at all (well, all wires do, but with kanthal it's almost impossible to measure - because it's so stable it is used as heating wire in, for example, toasters).
Because these changes are so minute, it is vital to keep all the connections clean. Clean that 510 on device and Subtank as often as you can. Make sure your coils are screwed down tightly (don't overdo it). If you build your own coils, used spaced coils (no contact coils) and tighten up the screws as much as you can to make a solid and reliable connection.
That's the short of it, feel free to ask more when you stumble over stuff.
PS: Phil just reviewed the IPV4 last night:
(if that doesn't work, the link is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhiVysiJ7ck)
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Washington, MO
Posts: 2,306
Informative stuff Chief. My interest in temp control is more the consistency when drawing. I had asked you about my coils which Steam Engine states are 550 at 10 watts. I never took into account they are liquid AND air-cooled and variably at that with draw inconsistencies. I'm not as worried about the cotton as I have them wicking great despite their puniness on these ancient protanks.--haven't had a burnt hit since learning to thread them looser. My worries have always been with the juice and flavorings--how high can they go before toxic. Thanks again for the info.
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Europe
Posts: 291
You are right in that the cotton is not the most important part of TC - although many make that mistake. It's just that 1) it's easy to show on camera and 2) easy to use as a test to see if TC is working.
When Evolv came out with the DNA40, for them the most important was the prevention of liquid overheating. They even kinda rushed the technology to be able to show it to the FDA.
Yes, airflow and juice, just like with a car engine. When tuning a high powered car, you can often up the turbo boost by just injecting more fuel to lower the combustion chamber temperature.
Same with ecigs, but there is a third factor: evaporation. It's like sweating for humans: the evaporation "removes" heat from the body. That's why Steam Engine - as useful as it is - is not really relevant.
But, again, we humans are very good at detecting acrolein et al. We even notice (smell) it when we overheat the olive oil or butter in our frying pan. So even without TC you will be able to vape safely.
The problem lies with high power vaping: some people like a hot vapor, and that tends to mask the taste/smell of overheating. Also: as soon as you stop inhaling, the heat is still there and can not magically disappear. That's not a problem with thinner wires, but is a serious problem with lower gauge wires (26g and down). You are "aftercooking" your liquid right after the inhale, with no airflow.
BTW: if you watch that video, Phil shows the signal on a dry coil, and then blows on the (bare) coil: the board notices and starts to send more power to the coil again until he stops blowing. Same with putting one drop of liquid on the wick.
Finally (and back where I started): when TC works well, you start to forget to check your juice levels. Especially when you are very busy at your desk or something, you keep taking a few drags without worry. Sometimes you feel something wrong as the vapor production starts to lessen. Low battery? Other problem? Nope: tank just bone dry. Nothing burned, nothing overheated, just fill up and start vaping again. That truly is wonderful.
Edit: it also allows you to vape a tank bone dry and switch flavors with no aftertaste and without having to rewick.
Vaping is already very safe compared to smoking, but with TC (and other new tech) we can even make it safer - especially for beginners. I predict that 1 year from now all beginner devices will have TC which will be hard to bypass. Like ABS on cars.
Anyway, good of you to worry about the liquids and temps and looking for ways to minimize harm even further.
When Evolv came out with the DNA40, for them the most important was the prevention of liquid overheating. They even kinda rushed the technology to be able to show it to the FDA.
Yes, airflow and juice, just like with a car engine. When tuning a high powered car, you can often up the turbo boost by just injecting more fuel to lower the combustion chamber temperature.
Same with ecigs, but there is a third factor: evaporation. It's like sweating for humans: the evaporation "removes" heat from the body. That's why Steam Engine - as useful as it is - is not really relevant.
But, again, we humans are very good at detecting acrolein et al. We even notice (smell) it when we overheat the olive oil or butter in our frying pan. So even without TC you will be able to vape safely.
The problem lies with high power vaping: some people like a hot vapor, and that tends to mask the taste/smell of overheating. Also: as soon as you stop inhaling, the heat is still there and can not magically disappear. That's not a problem with thinner wires, but is a serious problem with lower gauge wires (26g and down). You are "aftercooking" your liquid right after the inhale, with no airflow.
BTW: if you watch that video, Phil shows the signal on a dry coil, and then blows on the (bare) coil: the board notices and starts to send more power to the coil again until he stops blowing. Same with putting one drop of liquid on the wick.
Finally (and back where I started): when TC works well, you start to forget to check your juice levels. Especially when you are very busy at your desk or something, you keep taking a few drags without worry. Sometimes you feel something wrong as the vapor production starts to lessen. Low battery? Other problem? Nope: tank just bone dry. Nothing burned, nothing overheated, just fill up and start vaping again. That truly is wonderful.
Edit: it also allows you to vape a tank bone dry and switch flavors with no aftertaste and without having to rewick.
Vaping is already very safe compared to smoking, but with TC (and other new tech) we can even make it safer - especially for beginners. I predict that 1 year from now all beginner devices will have TC which will be hard to bypass. Like ABS on cars.
Anyway, good of you to worry about the liquids and temps and looking for ways to minimize harm even further.
quat
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: terra (mostly)firma
Posts: 4,823
Chief as always thanks for imparting your store of knowledge, even when it's a 'bad influence' , lol.
Still flirting with the bday gift to self Loved the sx mini m when I was holding it at the store. Now that you have used it a little, how is the battery life ?
I am not a battery recharger, I have an eleaf mini 30 w , and a Smok 50w (didn't get the firmware update as I don't need 65w , though since I use the port I wold like the pass through option). I saw that yihi doesn't warranty the port and I suppose they recommend wall charging the batteries. I know I don't Need the TC , but love the idea of it, especially with idea of being able to run a tank dry. It sounds like it will force me to be a rebuilder, something I keep saying I am going to start.
But even with all that said , I may just get eleaf 50w and continue to use prebuilts .
Vape on all !
Still flirting with the bday gift to self
Loved the sx mini m when I was holding it at the store. Now that you have used it a little, how is the battery life ? I am not a battery recharger, I have an eleaf mini 30 w , and a Smok 50w (didn't get the firmware update as I don't need 65w , though since I use the port I wold like the pass through option). I saw that yihi doesn't warranty the port and I suppose they recommend wall charging the batteries. I know I don't Need the TC , but love the idea of it, especially with idea of being able to run a tank dry. It sounds like it will force me to be a rebuilder, something I keep saying I am going to start.
But even with all that said , I may just get eleaf 50w and continue to use prebuilts .
Vape on all !
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Europe
Posts: 291
Ta for the kind words. 
A few things:
1) battery life isn't great in TC mode, but with the recent update it improved by 15 to 20%. It's now what you would expect of a 2500mAh battery. I need 2 18650's a day to vape 6 to 9ml at 23J (23W)
2) remember that you can buy an extension tube for the M. It looks ridiculous (like an axe) but with the double 18650 you get a lot more play time and, not unimportant, 150W power (although I can't for the life of me imagine running at that power level...) The chip really is that advanced: it switches from 60W in single battery mode automatically to 120 (and now 150)W in double battery mode (it senses the input voltage, 4.2 or 8.4). Mind you, in TC mode it's limited in both setups to 50J as you never need more really.
3) Yihi limits the warranty on the USB port to 3 months only because of the potential of it breaking. Ask any phone manufacturer, and they will tell you USB is fragile, especially with ham fisted users. (like me...) You can safely charge via USB (but not when you have the double 18650 tube). Me, I prefer to always use 2 dedicated batteries for a device (or 4 in the case of the Vapor Flask) and charge the empty one on a Nitecore i4 (or similar) as it's trusted and faster.
4) TC will not really force you to rebuild, as more and more temp sensing coils are available for the Subtanks, Deltas, Atlantisses and all the other ones derived from them. In fact I know quite a few rebuilders that have become "lazy" in that they just use a Subtank with a nickel (store bought) coil, slap in on an M in TC mode, and just vape on. I have no personal experience there, but from the people I trust I hear it works just fine.
Building nickel coils for the DNA40 was a bit of a drag as you needed 15 wraps or more to get some decent performance. The Mini M only needs 4, 5, 6 wraps of 28g NI200, and off you go. I can rebuild and rewick mine in about 10 minutes now, and I do it about every 5 days.
Not trying to sell you the M mind. It all goes so fast, that in 3 months time there will be more and better options available (probably). The M is heavy, and the paint on mine was terrible. I even completely stripped it (fingernail was enough...) waiting for a wrap I ordered. Yes, I could send it back, Yihi replaces them, but I can't be bothered really. That said, right now it is (for me) the most advanced device out there, so good it's almost boring.
Anyway, I'm babbling. It's a great device, but also look at the Invader (Heathvape I think) for out and about; sturdy, water proof (ish), cheap, and temp control works just fine on it. As Grimmgreen would say: use your vape budget hands.
A few things:
1) battery life isn't great in TC mode, but with the recent update it improved by 15 to 20%. It's now what you would expect of a 2500mAh battery. I need 2 18650's a day to vape 6 to 9ml at 23J (23W)
2) remember that you can buy an extension tube for the M. It looks ridiculous (like an axe) but with the double 18650 you get a lot more play time and, not unimportant, 150W power (although I can't for the life of me imagine running at that power level...) The chip really is that advanced: it switches from 60W in single battery mode automatically to 120 (and now 150)W in double battery mode (it senses the input voltage, 4.2 or 8.4). Mind you, in TC mode it's limited in both setups to 50J as you never need more really.
3) Yihi limits the warranty on the USB port to 3 months only because of the potential of it breaking. Ask any phone manufacturer, and they will tell you USB is fragile, especially with ham fisted users. (like me...) You can safely charge via USB (but not when you have the double 18650 tube). Me, I prefer to always use 2 dedicated batteries for a device (or 4 in the case of the Vapor Flask) and charge the empty one on a Nitecore i4 (or similar) as it's trusted and faster.
4) TC will not really force you to rebuild, as more and more temp sensing coils are available for the Subtanks, Deltas, Atlantisses and all the other ones derived from them. In fact I know quite a few rebuilders that have become "lazy" in that they just use a Subtank with a nickel (store bought) coil, slap in on an M in TC mode, and just vape on. I have no personal experience there, but from the people I trust I hear it works just fine.
Building nickel coils for the DNA40 was a bit of a drag as you needed 15 wraps or more to get some decent performance. The Mini M only needs 4, 5, 6 wraps of 28g NI200, and off you go. I can rebuild and rewick mine in about 10 minutes now, and I do it about every 5 days.
Not trying to sell you the M mind. It all goes so fast, that in 3 months time there will be more and better options available (probably). The M is heavy, and the paint on mine was terrible. I even completely stripped it (fingernail was enough...) waiting for a wrap I ordered. Yes, I could send it back, Yihi replaces them, but I can't be bothered really. That said, right now it is (for me) the most advanced device out there, so good it's almost boring.
Anyway, I'm babbling. It's a great device, but also look at the Invader (Heathvape I think) for out and about; sturdy, water proof (ish), cheap, and temp control works just fine on it. As Grimmgreen would say: use your vape budget hands.
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 639
Chief thank you for all the info! dwtbd, I have an iStick 50 and it is a world of difference in vaping experience between that and this ipv4. However it's also kind of a world of price difference. The ipv4 it's self is about twice as much as an iStick 50 and that's not including the 4 batteries and charger. I will say, many times, I take the iStick 50, put a subtank nano on there with a 1.2 stock coil, keep it between 17 and 20 watts and it will last me 3-4 days without a charge. For what you get for the money, I still say the iStick 50 is one of the best values on the market right now (once again, thank you Chief!).
Chief, what has got me kind of flustered at the moment is the "set resistance" feature. I was just talking to a guy at the local B&M and he says basically, I want to leave my coil sit at room temperature until that set resistance reading matches the resistance of the coil. Is that correct? Pardon my ignorance (I imagine Chief sitting shaking his head at me sometimes lol), but "set resistance" is not a feature I control with a button then, it's a reading for my coil and I want to wait until my reading matches the coil before I start vaping in temp control?
Chief, what has got me kind of flustered at the moment is the "set resistance" feature. I was just talking to a guy at the local B&M and he says basically, I want to leave my coil sit at room temperature until that set resistance reading matches the resistance of the coil. Is that correct? Pardon my ignorance (I imagine Chief sitting shaking his head at me sometimes lol), but "set resistance" is not a feature I control with a button then, it's a reading for my coil and I want to wait until my reading matches the coil before I start vaping in temp control?
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Europe
Posts: 291
Ah, forgot to mention that, sorry. When you put on a new coil or different atomizer, - both at room temp - you need to tell the device to read the resting resistance. You do that by pressing the up and down buttons at the same time. After a few seconds, it will show you the resistance. Mind you, this is only needed in Joules mode
With the Kanger temp coils, you should see 0.12 to 0.15 ohm IIRC.
If your coil is still warm when you do that, it would read it too high (like 0.20 or something) which means it will not regulate correctly.
I'll spare you the details as to why you need to do this, but in short it's a good solution (that Evolv picked up as well in their latest version of the DNA40.
Once you did this, you don't have to repeat it until you put on a new coil or a different tank.
With the Kanger temp coils, you should see 0.12 to 0.15 ohm IIRC.
If your coil is still warm when you do that, it would read it too high (like 0.20 or something) which means it will not regulate correctly.
I'll spare you the details as to why you need to do this, but in short it's a good solution (that Evolv picked up as well in their latest version of the DNA40.
Once you did this, you don't have to repeat it until you put on a new coil or a different tank.
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 639
Ok. Reason I'm stuck on it is I just took a nickel coil that sat in a tank of juice all night and it's reading .22, which they are .15 coils. I left it sit out so I'll try it again and see what happens. Thank you Chief!!
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